
I’ve always had a feeling of kinship to my Italian heritage, and an inherent bug for travel, but after trekking 15 states and five countries across three continents, I still hadn’t set foot on Italian soil. I set out to ensure that upon my 40th year on earth, I would have the pleasure of placing a big, black checkmark on Italy’s map.
By definition, our family’s preference while traveling is to “live like a local,” folding in experiences that allow us to truly connect to the people, their way of life, customs, and culture. We might walk to town with a resident fisherman, or help a farmer with the harvest, and this is why we decided to stay in Corniglia, the smallest and sleepiest of five villages that make up the Cinque Terre.
Pro Tip: We booked our family’s waterfront apartment in Corniglia through Booking.com. They guarantee the best prices for any type of property and no booking fees!

[Kerem Hanci Photography]


From Manarola, the trail continues north along a plunging coastline, through old train tunnels, and toward the sleepy village of Corniglia. The hardest part of this otherwise-easy section is 377 stairs leading to Corniglia’s town center. Tackling this behemoth certainly requires effort with children, but if approached slowly with rest periods and water breaks, it can be conquered. Relax quivering quads at one of the village’s delightful restaurants, or sip authentic Italian wines in a local wine bar. Corniglia’s signature narrow, winding streets are also an attraction themselves, so don’t forget to wander the community and wonder at its architectural magic.


Due to unusually hard rainstorms the week before our arrival, most of the paths north of this point were washed out and unreachable. On a rocky plateau, perched 208 meters above sea level, we sat, mesmerized by a Peregrine falcon soaring high above the cliffs. We had reached the midway point of a hike I had been waiting half my life to take and now, finally here, my daughter sitting next to me, it felt as if we could see the whole world. Fragrant wild rosemary tickled our noses from every direction, until we finally gave in and sprinkled its spiny leaves on the last bits of our fresh mozzarella and bread lunch. I had found heaven, and couldn’t imagine sharing it with anyone else.

Getting around
Trains are the best way to get around Cinque Terre. Local and regional trains are inexpensive (under 3 Euros), run frequently and take you right into the village centers from more populated areas of Italy. Try Eurail’s website for a complete listing of train routes, tickets, and options.
Accommodations
From luxury hotels and private apartments to camping areas and bed and breakfast options, Cinque Terre offers a wide variety of accommodations. We booked our apartment in Corniglia via Booking.com and it exceeded our expectations on every level. During the high season between June and September, advance reservations are a must.
When to go
Cinque Terre swarms with tourists throughout the summer months. If possible, plan a visit in spring or fall when weather is more enjoyable and the streets less crowded. The Consorzio Turistico Cinque Terre’s website is a great place for research.
Hiking
For trail conditions, maps and detailed park information visit the Cinque Terre National Park website.
Top Stops
Enoteca 5 Terre wine shop and bar in Monterosso di Mare has one of the large selections of locally-produced wines, and a comfortable seating area five feet from the sand, just right for relaxing with a glass and snack.
For the best coffee in Corniglia, visit Ricardo at Matteo Cafe. In the early evening, it becomes the local hangout for an aperitif.
For stunning views and traditional Ligurian cuisine, dine at Belforte in Vernazza.
Must-Have Gear
- Hiking Boots
- Raincoat
- Sunscreen
- Bathing suit
Jennifer Fontaine is the founder of Outdoor Families Magazine, and the publisher of MommyHiker.com. She and her family live in Los Angeles, CA.
Coombe Mill says
It sounds like a truly magical holiday, I hope that waiting so long to be able to share your experience with your daughter made the trip even more magical. The photos make it look like you’re walking through a fairytale. The fresh mozzarella, rosemary and bread lunch sounds like a fab way to finish off your hike. Thanks for linking up with Country Kids.
Melinda Kinsman says
Loved your article, and your attitude to tackling the challenges of walking with youngsters. Glad you made it home to your Italian roots for your 40th year! ??
Adrienne Jensen says
I love the Cinque Terre! My husband and I were just there in May (also on my first Italian roots trip!), and everything about it was magical. When we were hiking, there was an old man up on the mountain squeezing fresh orange juice with a twist of lemon and selling it for .50 euros a cup. It was the perfect touch.